bmx potty + filler = helmet?

[terminal fettler]

So, Slugg Nut is Boba Fett's pet name, not so tough after all eh?

 

[xeco]

So, Slugg Nut is Boba Fett's pet name, not so tough after all eh?

Ahh no no.. she's not aiming that blaster at Boba, just someone she's squeezing for info. But he does apparently have a pet name.. heh, it's 'Bo' and apparently he's pretty soft on Sintas, well.. softer on her than he is on everyone else . Pick up issue 7 of SW: Tales for the full rundown. The story itself is a massive mockery of eBay with lots of 'in-jokes'.

-Xeco

 

[terminal fettler]

I've just added some weathering at last, no coffee, this didn't work (but the tar did ) So i started by collecting random sized flints from the garden, these proved usefull for scratching through to the gel coat, because they're awkard to hold, they make unpredictable marks, thus less uniform ( but also difficult to emulate the original!) Then i used a badly adjusted air brush to give mist/splatters in the base grey, then mixed down with a mid brown to do the mandibles and r/h side. I then used this same mix applied with a cotton bud for the rust spots, and flcked over the r/h ear. I found a pea size piece of bitumen, soaked in white spirit and dabbed/ drawn over the kill stripes to recreate the, er, bitumen thats dabbed and drawn over the kill stripes( i'm sure thats what this is) Just the symbols and crack/repair to go...

 

[evan4218]

Looks stellar!!! I especialy love the back.

 

[Buckeye 01]

That is incredible! I bet that sucker looks better in person.

 

[Mandaflorian]

Greaaaaaaaaaat ! Looks really good, you´re a very talented artist !!

Can´t wait to see it finished !

 

[terminal fettler]

Finally added the symbols/markings. Using a fine point marker, i drew them on freehand, however the ink dosen't seem to be drying! The crack was dremelled with a compass point, then repaired using car body filler. I think i may still have to add some more weathering...

 

[Hammer of Might]

wow, that looks really good! freehand, eh? you must have a really sure hand.

 

[SD68]

TF, have you made any more progress on the ROTJ or have you been busy filling orders for your awesome buckets? The servo and ear pieces have slowed me down on my own. I hope to finally have it all in primer in the next week or so.

 

[terminal fettler]

TF, have you made any more progress on the ROTJ or have you been busy filling orders for your awesome buckets? The servo and ear pieces have slowed me down on my own. I hope to finally have it all in primer in the next week or so.

No sign of the ROTJ yet, i'm going to start another ESB paint job as i think it could be better, thanks for asking . It would be nice to see how you fitted in your servo...

 

[SD68]

TF,
Do you happen to know the dimensions for placement of the borden connector in relation to the cheek bottom and the upper cheek. What are the dimensions for the connector itself -OD as well as the drilled holes? Planning on scratchbuilding one and want to be sure on the placement before I drill. Do you have dimensions on the small rectangular indent on left upper cheek also? Last two details I need to add to bucket.

 

[terminal fettler]

Hi SD, i used a piece of 10mm tube for the borden, the three holes were guesstimated and were filed until they looked good. As for placement, the best option is to line it up by eye with a scaled ref. pic. until it looks good! ( sorry, not much help really) The slot on the L/H cheekbone is approx 9mmx4mm, its paralell to the line of the mandible and on my sculpt is approx. 5mm from this edge and 75mm from bottom to the base of the mandibleconfused ) Oh and watch out for the step in this slot, only obvious in one of the ref. pics!

 

[SD68]

Thanks TF! I will try to find that reference pic tonight. Getting close.

 

[evan4218]

TF, explain in detail how you achived the coldcast resin effect... I tryed several things last night for casting my coldcast MQ-1 board. It is somewhat cold cast but not like your peices are. There seems to be a trick I am missing, or perhaps its the ammount of metal dust I am using? Not sure.

Here are the variables I tried out:
1. I tried different combinations of the ammounts of metal dust I used (nickel dust) and got some decent results but not quite what I had in mind.

2. I tried it using white resin and clear resin, and pigmenting the clear black as I was told to do by the supplyer.

3. I also tryed mixing it for different amounts of time before pouring it into the mold so as not to let the metal settle in the bottom of the mold.

I really want this to match the cold cast effect of the bucket so any help would be great.

 

[terminal fettler]

I've found the following recipe works ( however, the type of resin will effect the amount of filler you can add to achieve a brushable/pourable consistantcy, the type of filler determines its %)
50 ml of resin
25 level tsp of alu. filler ( make sure each tsp is actually levelled off)
obveously, weaing a dust mask is advisable...
Mix this thoroughly, leave to stand for 5-10 mins (tap the jug/container to ease any air out)
Add catalyst at recommended % ( a slower set time will mean trapped air can work its way out)
brushing in will also help remove surface air bubbles...
I assume you're using a very fine alu. powder? Something similar to talc?..

 

[terminal fettler]

Oh, i forgot, what type of resin are you using ?

 

[evan4218]

Smoothcast 300 and Smoothcast 325 (the clear kind)

to fill my mold it needs about 40 ml of resin total. The resin can be demolded in 10 minuts. Forom reading what you were saying... 25 tsp of alum filler is ALOT... I obviously was unable to get alu. dust but I think nickel would be fine to try out.

I will try more powder. Should I get the enire thing to a thick BRUSHABLE density or just one part of the 2 part mix?

 

[terminal fettler]

O.K. it sounds like the materials we're using are quite different. Back to basics then! if 40ml of resin fills your mould, try 25ml resin, add your filler until it JUST goes grainy, like runny humous, this should be enough to fill your mould. You can always add too much filler , then slightly dilute with resin, the key is to get as much filler in as possible, but so you can still brush into the mould. The gel time sounds quite fast, whats the recommended catalyst %?

 

[evan4218]

its 100%A/100%B

Basicly equil parts... I think that is my issue. I was afraid that it wouldnt cure if there was to much dust in there so I didnt put near the ammount your talking about.

 

[terminal fettler]

As far as i'm aware, filler doesn't adversly affect cure time. Some resins are more capable of excepting greater quantities of filler, i'm using general purpose polyester resin for this reason...