Yet another ToEleven scratch build

[Cyris]

Awesome job, ToE! Even if it is ONLY at 99%... I would love to see it once it's complete! Are you planning to add an MQ-1 behind the slots?

 

[ToEleven]

Awesome job, ToE! Even if it is ONLY at 99%... I would love to see it once it's complete! Are you planning to add an MQ-1 behind the slots?

Thanks bro! I do plan to add the mq-1. I have a resin cast one...I'd love to get a hold of a real one, but they're always too high for my taste on ebay. I'm still on the lookout for something reasonable.

 

[intwenothor]

No worries.

I'd love to see that if you ever get some. If I could get my hands on some I would probably spray up a swatch and try to match current paints to that. That original esb dome green really has a unique look to it. Humbrol 78 just looks too green to me.

I managed to score some Floquil German Field Gray. This particular paint hasn't been made for some time so tracking it down was tough, tough, tough. Unfortunately this was not right colour. It's a very dark, muddy, grey-green (but more grey than green). I've a couple of paints from Vallejo that are interesting: Vallejo Model Air Panzer Olive VAL71.096 and Vallejo German Uniform - VAL70920. To save some time I'll add that the latter seems preferable to me and certainly worth looking at.

I'm pleased that I managed to track down what I was looking for but not so pleased that I was looking for the wrong thing.

 

[ToEleven]

Too bad about the German Field Gray. I've got some Testors MM POG on order to try for my next build. I may go ahead and look at the Vallejo offerings too. I don't mind mixing, but I'd love a go to stock color to use. Even better if we could find a stash that original Field Gray.

Also, Tamiya has a color they also call Field Gray which is a close match for the left ear green. I ended up lightening it up a little, but it's nice.

 

[intwenothor]

I think the Testors MM POG is the best colour and better than the Pollyscale POG I've got.

 

[ToEleven]

Well I've finally gotten around to building my perspex block/lens thing. I used a miter/chop saw to make the cuts. It consists of 2 pieces...the flat main body as one and the smaller 45 degree angle piece on top (or bottom really). I used Plastiweld to glue them together. Double sided duct tape also comes in handy for cutting small parts like this. I just tape the piece I'm cutting to a larger piece of wood and run my cut. It was really a lot of trial and error...let's just say that many pieces of acrylic died to bring you this perspex block.



Now I need to make a mold so I can mess around with clear casting...uhg. I also need to figure out how I'm going to drill (or route) the led channels. There are some really good ideas I've seen floating about here.

 

[LB66679]

I have a drill press and a X-Y vise I use to chock up the blocks to drill the holes in line . Just started molding and making clear bits myself

 

[ToEleven]

I have a drill press and a X-Y vise I use to chock up the blocks to drill the holes in line . Just started molding and making clear bits myself

Yeah that sounds like the way to go. I used a table router, but I had trouble with the bit grabbing and pulling. I messed up a couple before I got something I liked.

Sent from my XT1585

 

[LB66679]

I was thinking about doing it by hand but realized I could just use the drill press and save myself the headache ! I'm sure if you go slow any way should be fine

 

[BudaFett]

Woah this is scratch built?! Amazing!

 

[RealMatix]

That build is one of my favorites! Outstanding work.... @ToEleven may i ask you if you increased the size of Raf's templates?

 

[ToEleven]

No. The thing I learned was to use adobe acrobat to print, and select actual size in the print window. This will make sure it prints at full size.