Armor Chest, back and cod armor

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Ladies and gentlemen, stop those cards and letters. We have a winner in the "Whose got the most Siegfreid and Roy pics" contest. Not just one, but TWO pics???? ....not that there's anything wrong with that........:rolleyes :rolleyes :rolleyes :rolleyes .......yeah, right.....
 
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ShocKWavE wrote:

hehe, Mirax just so we are clear, when I say
tmb_conservation.jpg
, I mean :puke :puke :puke :puke :puke.

Ummm, yet another picture? Interesting. I'm with MM on this one ;)
 
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MegalomaniacalMandalore wrote:

Ladies and gentlemen, stop those cards and letters. We have a winner in the "Whose got the most Siegfreid and Roy pics" contest. Not just one, but TWO pics???? ....not that there's anything wrong with that........:rolleyes :rolleyes :rolleyes :rolleyes .......yeah, right.....


Its a little suspicious that you know how to spell their names:D
 
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Siegfreid is the blond and Roy is the brunette. I know this cause I live about 1 1/2 hours from Vegas and I just saw their show over New Years. But that's ok since I'm a girl :)
 
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Whats that boy doin to the back of that lion!:eek:
Really, I've heard of these"guys" but never knew what they do & looked like. I thought from the looks of the Miami Vice attire, that Miami was doing a stage version of the "Birdcage".:lol:
 
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lol....shockwave.

Ok, as far as the curve at the bottom of the cod-piece... its two(2) seperate pieces glued and epoxy-puttied to fill in the gaps. It was harder than I thought to get the right curve on the bottom part that goes under ...you. What I did was design the front plate out of cardboard. Then, with a scrap piece of cardboard, cut a approximate shape to match the bottom and taped it to the bottom curving under. At first it wasnt even close, so I taped extra pieces of cardboard in the gaps and once it was all flush and curving under in the right angle, I trimmed off the excess and untaped it from the front piece. Then laid it flat (many little pieces taped together) and traced out the shape it made onto a new piece of cardboard. Once the new "correct" shape was cut out and taped into place, witha little more trimming, I had my pattern for the sintra =)

Hope this helps.....

Mav
 
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About time someone got this thread back on track... ;)

That sounds like a good plan Mav. I doubt it would work for me though because I'm using sheet metal and I'd have to paint the filler and try to match the rest of the aluminum.
 
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KrOnk. The link I gave you in another thread had pics, but probably not enough info to show how to do this. Here's how I'm going to do mine(Same as all my other stuff, just a different piece);

Cut an oversized triangular piece of your material(about one inch larger on both sides, and at each end).

Using a ball pein(sometimes written "peen") hammer, hammer out a depression in the end-grain of a dry stump or bury a chunk of log or telephone pole. Just pounding heck out of the wood will creata a nice bowl effect. It will also make the wood denser and stronger there. Hammer it smooth.

With your ball pein hammer's rounded end(they can be purchased for cheap; way less than ten bucks), start working the metal over the depression. Not whacking, but not tapping. Enough to change it. Start at the outside and work in to the center. If you picture it as a clock, work from 12 to 3, then 12 to 9, then 6 to 3, then 6 to 9. This will keep it from taking on a spiral twist.

Don't worry about getting a finished shape the first time around, but try not to strike more than you have to. Aluminum actually gets harder as you work it(read; brittle)repeatedly. You really don't want to have to anneal it to soften it up. Just work steadily, and you should have it pretty well done in three times around.

If there are alot of uneven raised parts, use the pein to tap tap tap very quickly and close together on that smoothed post to even the surface out. Don't strike, just tap. You'll see what I mean as you try it. Trim off any extra.

Finally, sand the surface lightly, then wash with hot water and soap. When dry, apply a couple coats of sandable spray primer, sand down the high spots, repeat as needed to get a uniform surface. Paint 'er up.

For a first timer, I would really advise practicing on a piece of scrap to get the feel of it first. Make an ashtray or something.

Hope this helped.
 
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are sigfreid and roy the ones in the verizon picture phone commercial? the ones "doing their thing" in the convenience store?
 
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:lol: haha man I'm sorry I got this off track, just too hard to resist. Actually that was a great explaination of creating the piece.
 
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Here you go Qui-Gon_Ludo! back-plate attachments.

And everyone else. just wanted to share how my back-plate and collar piece its attached to my vest. I glued two snaps on the back-plate with Probond glue. I know some people are having a hard time with this glue, but if you make a small dent on your armor pieces - you could slide the snap in there so it wont move around. then set the other side to the vest.



<image src=http://www.r2ro.com/images/v3.jpg>

<image src=http://www.r2ro.com/images/v4.jpg>

<image src=http://www.r2ro.com/images/v5.jpg>

<image src=http://www.r2ro.com/images/v7.jpg>

For the collar I used those snaps the are sewn on. I sewn one part to the vest then glued other to the collar piece. Once everyone is glued i permantly glued the snaps together. So my collar wont ever come off unless it tear it off :)


<image src=http://www.r2ro.com/images/v1.jpg>

<image src=http://www.r2ro.com/images/v2.jpg>

<image src=http://www.r2ro.com/images/v6.jpg>
 
Looks great as always Arturo. Where do you find Probond? in what section of say, Home Depot?
 
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Five for each chest plate (10), six for the ab plate (6), three for the collar (3), and two for each shoulder (4). As for the center diamond, I'd recomend gluing it on (or velcro if you plan on washing your vest regularly). It's kinda small for snaps unless you don't mind it standing away from your vest a bit. You may want to add one to the bottom point of the codpiece so it stays in place as well (1). That'd bring the total to 24.

Also, make sure you get no closer than 1/2" from the edges so that the snaps don't show. Mine are closer to an inch from the edges and hidden quite well.
 
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