Ghostphoenix01
Jr Hunter
getting towards the end of my 2 builds and was wondering what Matt clear coat to get and if it will distort the colors? Or is it better to just not clear it at all? Thanks ahead of time guys!
Clear coats?
- Thread starter Ghostphoenix01
- Start date
Fett 4 Real
Sr Hunter
I like using testors dullcoat. It doesn't interact badly with other paints and doesn't really change the colors....
Ghostphoenix01
Jr Hunter
How is that compared to the humbrol matt coat?
Fett 4 Real
Sr Hunter
no idea, never seen it used. The MM stuff is a lacquer and comes in a can.
Grimstuff
Active Hunter
Personally I usually elect to avoid clear coating, they tend to completely matte out the metallics making them pretty much null. Also oil enamels are also pretty damn tough on their own too, so I don't really feel a clear is adding too much. I also just like my damage layers having that real 3D texture to them you can feel with your fingertips, a clear layer sorta rounds all that off a bit.
So generally, yeah, definitely don't feel like you have to clear.
I've never tried dullcoat though before, maybe it's laquer nature does a lot better with those problems?
So generally, yeah, definitely don't feel like you have to clear.
I've never tried dullcoat though before, maybe it's laquer nature does a lot better with those problems?
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Ghostphoenix01
Jr Hunter
Builder
Hunter
My ESB paint up is done with Humbrol and the Humbrol paint guide for a starting point. I was concerned with how much affect the clear coat would have on the
metallic (silver) areas when finished. I tested a number of combinations with Testors different metallics and spray coatings. It's just my opinion but the best result on all
of the paint came by using Model Master Metalizer Non-Buff spray over Model Master Non- Buff Aluminum paint.
Here it is.
I've posted this in other places because I haven't seen it mentioned before.
It brings out a richness and depth of color without much sheen.That's what you need for hard objects to have a substantial look ...In my opinion.
Here is how our ESB Boba looks with as many as 4 coats of sealer and under a heavy studio light set up.
He shines less with excellent color depth in natural light conditions.
If anyones is interested I used Bare Metal Foil for the center chest piece.
Hope more people give this a try.
metallic (silver) areas when finished. I tested a number of combinations with Testors different metallics and spray coatings. It's just my opinion but the best result on all
of the paint came by using Model Master Metalizer Non-Buff spray over Model Master Non- Buff Aluminum paint.
Here it is.
I've posted this in other places because I haven't seen it mentioned before.It brings out a richness and depth of color without much sheen.That's what you need for hard objects to have a substantial look ...In my opinion.
Here is how our ESB Boba looks with as many as 4 coats of sealer and under a heavy studio light set up.
He shines less with excellent color depth in natural light conditions.If anyones is interested I used Bare Metal Foil for the center chest piece.
Hope more people give this a try.
Builder
Hunter
Yes, as I mentioned it does extremely well in terms of a hard finish over everything.
As proof,kind of embarrassing to say, I happened to be looking on my costume build sight and saw a helmet detail that I had missed....or so I thought. So I picked up the helmet and on close inspection found that some of the mask
hadn't come off and was trapped under the paint and sealer. That can happen with thin areas of liquid mask. I can assure you that this sealer was very solid to work through to lift that bit of mask.
It's not super hard because our gauntlets are showing some wear and tear from natural movement and use. My paint is layered with touches of wash and topical accents.
Grimstuff
Active Hunter
With airbrushed model paints the difference is probably more minor, as you're laying down such a thin coat anyway. But yeah, I know that with rattlecans at least gloss enamels generally lay on much thicker and tougher than mattes. I believe most paint is matted by just adding talc to the mixture which reduces it's hardness properties some. Also with glosses you can take advantage of the automotive paints, which are quite a lot more enamely and durable.
Gloss enamels take much longer to cure though, and you'll probably want to scotchbright it to give the topcoat a better grip on it. So a few extra concerns there. Also probably want to test for compatibility with the matte too, there's a lot of variety of clears and some can be weird.
Gloss enamels take much longer to cure though, and you'll probably want to scotchbright it to give the topcoat a better grip on it. So a few extra concerns there. Also probably want to test for compatibility with the matte too, there's a lot of variety of clears and some can be weird.
GeekdadX7
Active Hunter
Alright guys... sorry to be the one paint newb posting in the thread full of Divinci's, but I tried googling the answer to this and couldn't find it. The other day I put a few coats of spray paint onto a piece of EVA foam armor that I was messing around with in the garage. Hit it with the plasti dip first, then hit it with 2 light coats of a regular matte finished spray paint. Let it dry, and about an hour later I went out and hit it with some clear finish spray. Everything was fine, and then probably 5-10 seconds later the entire surface of what I just hit with the clear finish suddenly got this crazy crackly spider web texture/pattern all over the entire surface. It completely ruined what I had just been working on. I've had that happen a few times. I've tried googling or looking on youtube for an explination but I must be putting in the wrong search question because nothing comes up. Seeing that this is a thread about clear coats, I was wondering if you folks could shed any light onto it for me, or what I should have done differently?
Grimstuff
Active Hunter
GeekdadX7 You painted it outside the recoat time widows, so the solvents in the top layer ended up eating the bottom layer. Follow the directions on the can really carefully, it should say something about recoat within 1 hour, or after 48 (times can vary for different paints). It has to do with the chemical reaction of the paint as it cures. Cold temps can slow it down too, so maybe add a day or two to be safe. Add even more time too if using different brand paints, some can be more aggressive.
Also, spray the clear coat in many light coats a few mins apart, as even after 48 hours too heavy of an initial coat might lay down more solvent than the bottom coat can handle.
Also, spray the clear coat in many light coats a few mins apart, as even after 48 hours too heavy of an initial coat might lay down more solvent than the bottom coat can handle.
Builder
Hunter
Here trooping in fairly average light with four coats of Testors Model Master Metalizer Sealer (non- buffing) over
all painted surfaces.
Note that the silver non buff aluminum paint on the shoulder armor still has a nice shine but the paint around it doesn't.
The colors remain vibrant and have depth without shine and the subtle difference in the greens holds up well. My two cents worth.
all painted surfaces.
Note that the silver non buff aluminum paint on the shoulder armor still has a nice shine but the paint around it doesn't.
The colors remain vibrant and have depth without shine and the subtle difference in the greens holds up well. My two cents worth.
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GermanRedrum
New Hunter
I can imagine that you hit it with a lacquer that is supposed to be steady and firm and foam is not a stable material like, say, plastic or metal. My guess is THAT is what created the 'spider web' effect. even picking it up could make it crack because it is not a firm material. Just my $.02
