ROTJ Paint Up, Helmet by Artakha

Soundwave

Hunter
Jumping into my ROTJ bucket today! So far so good. Using an airbrush and enamel paints.

355DD21E-7F4C-41D3-81F8-04FC23B959BC.jpeg
 
Thanks, hvacdon! I managed to get two colors onto the left cheek today while working on some other miscellaneous items. I really hope I’m getting the colors matched properly on each layer. I’m also hoping that freehanding the more delicate details not easily masked won’t be too difficult.
 
I've always heard and read, that taking your time for the detail is always best. I would think that the templates are good for the basics, and then make another pass with gallery pics in hand to reference the small details to put on topically. I have saved Jayvee's ROTJ wip and paint color references. Some of the colors he uses are not available, so you have to substitute other brand's equal. *UPDATE 2013* WIP : Jayvee's 'lil' chunk of ROTJ love' paint up "The Zero Effect" has a good wip thread with current available paint colors that he has used. TZE's helmet looks fantastic also. Zero's ROTJ helmet paint up
There's not as many references for wip's for the ROTJ helmets. These two are a couple I came across out of the half dozen or so best links I've found in the last year.
I hope these help, I'm looking forward to seeing your progress pictures !!
 
Getting close to done with the left cheek. Just one question. How do I get rid of the marks from the transfer paper? Do I have to paint over them? I was hoping they would just “wipe” off so to speak.

BE0F1F00-2665-400B-8A07-60D63C93FB5D.jpeg


391D707A-E929-466E-9BD5-3CA180EFA618.jpeg
 
A little splotchy and uneven tbh. A light steel-wool or scotchbright might help to blend it together some maybe, but generally it's pretty impossible to get sprayed on and brushed on paint to blend well.

Marking pencils are supposed to be water soluble, but yeah, they can be resistant sometimes. I actually don't bother with em and just paint the masking fluid directly onto the stencil cutouts, but you gotta accept a little more in-exactness working that way.
 
A little splotchy and uneven tbh. A light steel-wool or scotchbright might help to blend it together some maybe, but generally it's pretty impossible to get sprayed on and brushed on paint to blend well.

Marking pencils are supposed to be water soluble, but yeah, they can be resistant sometimes. I actually don't bother with em and just paint the masking fluid directly onto the stencil cutouts, but you gotta accept a little more in-exactness working that way.

Yeah, I was kind of afraid of that. I’ll see what the steel wool can do. From here on out I’m just going to try and freehand the masking fluid. I tried rubbing the outlines with water with no luck. I guess once that powder from the transfer paper gets on to paint it isn’t coming off.
 
Still looks a bit splotchy, but it’s definitely evened out. I rubbed it down with the steel wool, then rubbed over the area using a paper towel and paint thinner. Lol no more transfer paper from here on out. Not worth the extra work to try and remove the graphite etches!

C515E000-3186-4981-A500-D0535E1DE957.jpeg
 
Sooo, I masked and painted the upper cheek. While removing the tape the paint on the lower cheek decided it was coming up with the paint .
Round 2 FIGHT!

C9E4D18F-F7BA-4EA5-AB6B-D062DB136679.jpeg


3413E45E-6D42-4126-A2D8-93B067CCFEA4.jpeg
 
SW are using an adhesion promoter before you paint?
I didn’t use one. This is actually the first time I’ve heard of that. I didn’t know to use one because in all the tutorials I’ve read didn’t use one. I actually just finished masking and putting the first layer down again. Hopefully this second time around works better. I did a light wet sanding over the whole helmet, and thoroughly washed with soapy water.
 
The model paint he painted over the rattle can (assuming from the looks) is what didn't stick...you don't use adhesion promoter to paint over paint. The smoothness of the silver is the problem. Use some steel wool next time over the silver to give the paint some better adhesion....and another thing you can do when removing the masking tape is to use some heat from a heat gun or blowdryer on a low setting. Waiting over 24 hours before masking is also vital.
 
Thanks, Fett 4 Real. Yeah it was most likely because I didn’t prep the surface, and it was too smooth like you said. That’s all taken care of now, so fingers crossed it doesn’t happen again.
 
Starting to get back to it following the set backs. Still not sure how I feel about it. Starting to think I may need to do the lower cheek again.

D4C7864E-78E8-4D1B-A365-519D26337491.jpeg


24E1A795-C6DD-4F34-9E63-96D2CA374626.jpeg


F5C1A08D-A9FF-4565-B2CD-A2D56449C4A4.jpeg


859AC0BC-25D2-4920-95A8-B159F79B8A6E.jpeg
 
I'd say you could go for some more detail, and also, I'd advise making the mandibles and cheeks follow a line closer to the stencils layed out by RafalFett. It still looks good though!
 
I'd say you could go for some more detail, and also, I'd advise making the mandibles and cheeks follow a line closer to the stencils layed out by RafalFett. It still looks good though!
I used his templates. It was a pain, but I sized them as closely as I could. There’s more dark grey detail there, but it kinda gets washed out in the photos.
 
This thread is more than 6 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top