FPH2 esb build
- Thread starter psych0ticmisfit
- Start date
psych0ticmisfit
Active Hunter
So to prevent further cracking, I modeled up a bracket and 3d printed it. Added two springs to put pressure on the bracket. That way it stays in place. The mandibles are now firm and do not flex when you pick the helmet up.
I will make it pretty later on when I’m designing the new visor clips.
I will make it pretty later on when I’m designing the new visor clips.
hsmoke
New Hunter
This is the link to the listing I ordered from. Yesterday when I posted it was actually $6.99. They usually only stock a few at a time and the price fluctuates with new stock so you just have to keep an eye on it.
Also, I'm not really seeing cracks either, but as stated above CA/superglue mixed with baby powder makes an excellent filler. I used it a ton on my BB-8 build.
Wasted Fett
Literally Asian
hey sorry there was a crack, you can repair it by opening the crack with a dremel and filling it with a mix of polyester and micro balloons. or, fill it in with Home Depot poly resin. Or fill it in with crazy glue and baking soda. message me if you want.
psych0ticmisfit
Active Hunter
The cracks are barely visible until you put a small bit of pressure on either mandible then you can see them. When the mandibles flex, the crack is visible in the gelcoat. Since installing that 3d printed brace on the lower part of the mandibles, I no longer see the cracks. so I think that brace is going to help keep it from getting worse.
I am currently designing a piece for the MQ-1 board to sit in and attach to the keyslots. Printed a few prototype designs but now im all out of filament. So need to order more.
I also ordered the maskol from hhumbrol directly, used paypal and it went through fine. I received my tracking number for the paints too. so excited, I should be able to start painting next week.
I am currently designing a piece for the MQ-1 board to sit in and attach to the keyslots. Printed a few prototype designs but now im all out of filament. So need to order more.
I also ordered the maskol from hhumbrol directly, used paypal and it went through fine. I received my tracking number for the paints too. so excited, I should be able to start painting next week.
EvanDallas
Hunter
psych0ticmisfit
Active Hunter
Thanks When I first tried to order from Humbrol, their website said it couldn’t process my card. So that’s why I was trying to find an alternative retailer. But yesterday I tried Humbrols site again and was able to pay with PayPal and i already received my tracking number.
Actually its cheaper here... $4.49 (Normally $4.99 here):
Maskol Rubber Masking Liquid (28ml. Bottle) Humbrol
psych0ticmisfit
Active Hunter
any tips for installing a visor? im having some difficulties. I tried searching but couldnt find anything.
intwenothor
Well-Known Hunter
There's a sticky in the helmet section where various people give various methods for visor installation.
The sticky is called 'visor installation'.
The sticky is called 'visor installation'.
psych0ticmisfit
Active Hunter
psych0ticmisfit
Active Hunter
Received my order of paints. The light gray 147 was out of stock. So I have to wait on that. But I have everything else. Still waiting on my maskol order as well.
psych0ticmisfit
Active Hunter
Finally got some time to start painting my helmet. I’m new to airbrushing so I’ve been learning as I go. The base grey. 147 I think it was, gave me troubles. But I think I worked through them finally. Masked off the base grey on the back panels and sprayed metallic silver #11. I peeled all the maskol off to make sure I was doing everything correctly when it comes to masking. (Probably shouldn’t have done that) but now I’m ready to mask the silver and base grey again.
psych0ticmisfit
Active Hunter
Anyone know how long I should wait before masking and painting over the metallic silver?
psych0ticmisfit
Active Hunter
What’s the max amount of time the maskol should be left on?
psych0ticmisfit
Active Hunter
So I got impatient and decided to keep going after letting the silver dry for 3 or 4 hrs.
Didn’t have any reactions with the paints. So that’s good. Put down the dark gray #79. Masked it all. Then laid down a coat of the light sea gray. Let it dry about 30 minutes and peeled off the masking. Comparing it to the stencils color sheets and it’s pretty close. I am liking the contrast with the other colors. I will probably mask this tomorrow afternoon and then spray the green. What does everyone think. Definitely different from the terminal fettler guide I’m following, but I think it resembles the real color better.
Didn’t have any reactions with the paints. So that’s good. Put down the dark gray #79. Masked it all. Then laid down a coat of the light sea gray. Let it dry about 30 minutes and peeled off the masking. Comparing it to the stencils color sheets and it’s pretty close. I am liking the contrast with the other colors. I will probably mask this tomorrow afternoon and then spray the green. What does everyone think. Definitely different from the terminal fettler guide I’m following, but I think it resembles the real color better.
psych0ticmisfit
Active Hunter
This morning while staring at my helmet, I decided I was not happy with the current results. I also couldn't get the white Saral transfer paper marks to come off at all. I tried an eraser, tried soap and water and even tried a kneaded eraser. Nothing would remove them. It just looked bad, plus the light sea gray was bothering me a bit. So I stripped the paint. Thats what I get for being impatient. lol
I will clean it up and then start the painting over, this time I will paint each layer and let it dry 48 hrs before I apply the Saral transfer marks, and next paint layer.
anyone have tips on using and removing the Saral transfer paper?
I will clean it up and then start the painting over, this time I will paint each layer and let it dry 48 hrs before I apply the Saral transfer marks, and next paint layer.
anyone have tips on using and removing the Saral transfer paper?
psych0ticmisfit
Active Hunter
Ok so I stripped the paint layers off. Wet sanded and then primed. Let that dry two days and today I put two layers of the Matt light gray #147 on the back panels. It matches the lid of the paint very well. I will let this dry a few days then use steel wool to smooth it out and apply my stencil and maskol.
Taking my time now. Don’t want to mess this up anymore. I’m also getting the hang of this airbrushing. It’s so fun.
If you look at the dome in the picture that’s also Matt light gray #147, but it appears almost white compared to the back panels. I think that’s because of not using a primer first. So I’ll be redoing those as I go.
Taking my time now. Don’t want to mess this up anymore. I’m also getting the hang of this airbrushing. It’s so fun.
If you look at the dome in the picture that’s also Matt light gray #147, but it appears almost white compared to the back panels. I think that’s because of not using a primer first. So I’ll be redoing those as I go.
toofastrobot
Active Hunter
Use a different stencil paper.
