Jbarela, you are correct. I think the problem we ran into was that we could never find leds small enough to fit together close enough to create the exact effect. As much as I hate to say it, some sacrifices had to be made.
Here is the way the board is set up. The top row of lights (The ones in question are hard wired and will not be easy to change. I can amost assure you Shack will not be willing to change them as it would require a tremendous amount of rewiring and soldering. If you are confident enough in your electronics knowledge and background you could rewire them yourself but I would strongly advize against it. If you are determined to do it yourself you can find the original schematics here: http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/bbt/Images/ChestLED/BoardTopV2.jpg
and here: http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/bbt/Images/ChestLED/BoardBottomV2.jpg
The bottom row (characters) of lights are controlled by a PIC which is an easily replacable chip. Shack built the board this way so that if we ever discovered a more accurate sequencing of the characters he could make new PICs and we could just replace the old with the new.
Jbarela, I have to disagree with you about changing the sequencing of the top row. I think you are coming at this from the wrong angle. The top row sequencing is correct (you of all people should know that ). The problem is that the LEDs used in the top row are slightly too large. If you are intent on trying to correct this I suggest searching for smaller rectangular LEDs. We couldn't find any but who knows, they may be out there. If you could find them it would be a fairly simple task to have someone who has electronic soldering skills to replace the old LEDs with the new ones and all would be correct.
Hey BB...Yes you stated it alot better than I....yes the top sequence is correct you just cant see all LEDs...what I was thinking was more of having maybey just two or three LEDS light up per flash instead of four..just so I can see all five flashes sequence in the top slit.
Jimmy
darthgoat, if you cut the slots out to exactly fit the characters in the bottom row you wouldn't have to black anything out. The last light or two in the top row on each side would be covered by the breast plate. What you end up with is the lights on the end looking a bit shorter than the lights in the middle. Not a huge deal but as jbarela pointed out, not exactly accurate.
Um....... Well I saw what has been accomplished, and well I think Mr. Man has certainly out did himself. That was great! I can remember seeing some costumes and being able to identify the solo foam cups under the poster paints, the cardboard tubes, all the elmers glue,and knowing how that person was praying to god that it doesn't rain! Still admiring their inventiveness, but this is like the difference of launching a bottle rocket outta a coke can and working for NASA. I can only imagine how this will improve on these costumes!!!!!!!
As I mentioned in another thread, just wait to see what else is coming down the pipes. This is just the tip of the iceberg! This is the beginning of a new era for accuracy in Fett related props. I believe all of us will do for Fett what the guys at the RPF have done for sabers. Now if we could just get some of the big names prop builders to turn our way and give us a little of their time and expertise we could help direct them in building armor that NO ONE could rival...
The big names attract the fans as Braks said. Braks could you email me the clip? I can't wait to see what the new piece is but I kind of have an idea, as I said in the other post on the RPF.
Brak's has been kind enough (again) to host the schematics on his website (same link as the animation posted previously). Whether you plan to do this yourself, or want to buy one pre-assembled, PLEASE check out the thread on the RPF:
I've tried to answer all questions ahead of time, including warnings for anyone wanting to attempt this on their own. I'll be monitoring that thread for the next day or two. So if you have any questions, please feel free to post there.
And as I stated on the other board, IF you attempt this on your own, please let me know how it goes. I want to hear from others, whether or not my schematic was easily readable and if I forgot anything.
Thanks,
ATM
Rapier wit? This is the end of the twentieth century! I'm using a laser sighted under-and-over twin barrelled wit, with a 7.62 mm floating breech pulse rifle firing caseless one-liners on top, and a 40mm explosive gag launcher underneath. For backup I've got a 14mm pump shotgun firing flechette rounds with 10 barbed comments in each, which can also shoot sabot ego-piercing rounds. Of course when all else fails, there's always the trusty flamethrower which I've strapped to my pulse rifle with duct tape in the approved style.
According to Richie, no. The measurements I posted, while maybe not exactly accurate to the MotM suit (but close), they are the size needed to accomodate ShackMan's lights. Remember, this is per Richie. I don't know anybody else you can get these particular lights from other than him, or ShackMan himself. Being that both sets of measurements are only slightly different, the lights may line up with both.
Yes! Shackman created his light per our sequence. Check the link above for more info. you can even see a video of Shack's lights in action!
As far as the measurements, I imagine both would work. Keep in mind that several of us believe that the last digit in the display is partially covered due to the slot being too small.
Your best bet is to wait until you have the light then draw a template using a sheet of paper and use that to make your slots.
Richie is the salesman (per se) of ShackMan's lights. I don't personally know of anything closer to the movie than these. Depending on who you ask (or how good you can still frame your VCR), the bottom display has either a two or three sequence flash pattern. See the link Brak's posted in this thread to see both possibilities. Either could be correct.