Airbrush Tips

Neo Fett

Active Hunter
I recently got my first airbrush. I have a lot to learn so I was wondering if anyone here had anything they wish they knew when they got started.

My biggest question is how to cover a large area (ie helmet in silver) quickly.
 
What time of airbrush did you buy? Each one work differently on how to adjust the flow. The tighter the needle the smaller the spray, the larger you open up the larger the spray.
 
Usually an airbrush is for detail work. You want to cover the surface carefully and slowly to create a nice surface. Obviously, it depends what sort of airbrush you have; but I'd recommend taking it slow. Practice getting the thinner to paint mix right, getting a smooth consistant flow. It all takes time getting used to.
 
Yes. Depending on the type, you might be able to adjust flow if you want to cover a lot of area quickly.

And before you start, figure out how to completely break down and clean your air brush. I waited too long to do this and my brush ended up clogging up in the middle of laying down a color, resulting in much frustration.

Generally, I buy bulk paint thinner from Home Depot and Lowe's and spray a container full through the brush after using (for enamels). and then rub down the exterior surfaces after each use. For acrylic paints, you can do the same thing with water or soap and water. Though it seems counter-intuitive, I have found that acrylics are more difficult to clean up than enamels. The right solvent will dissolve any enamel. Once an acrylic dries, it is resistant to soap, water and solvents. I have heard the opposite from most people, who say that acrylics are easier to clean up. I think the issue is that I am not afraid to use lots and lots of solvent/ thinner.

From time to time, just running solvent (water for acrylics or thinner for enamels) through the brush won't get it clean. When it first starts to clog, break it down and do a thorough and complete cleaning. Trying to limp along with a clogged brush is going to leave a paint job you would rather forget. And you are still going to have to clean it anyway. I start sessions by laying down on a piece of cardboard just to be sure it is spraying correctly.

Most paints require you to dilute them down to use in an airbrush. Acrylics are diluted with distilled water. Enamels are diluted with thinner. I use the expensive thinner for this (Humbrol, etc.). Some paints require less thinner than others. Humbrol requires a lot (which is a good thing because thinner is cheaper than paint), Testors/ Model Masters requires less.

I mix up custom colors. If you do this, keep a large glass bottle of the color on supply. Once you run out, it will be difficult to match the old color, so keep it on hand. You might also need it for touch ups later on.

When you lay a coat down, lay the first coat down light and let it settle down. Letting that first coat settle is the key to not having it bunch up and drip. I always get anxious and want to lay the first coat down quickly, but take your time with that first coat. Once that coat settles down, you are less likely to have issues with subsequent coats. If you lay it on too thick or don't give it tie to settle, you will inevitably see drips.

Even though I had an airbrush, I used Valspar Metallic Silver spray paint on the helmet. To me, it is the best silver going. It needs to cure a minimum of five days before you handle it and I recommend a week or two. Otherwise, you will leave finger prints when you handle it... both indentations and dark marks. You might pick it up and it will feel dry, but if you press down on the surface, it will leave a mark. Despite all of that, it is the only silver that looks like real metal, not flakes of metal in a paint. That said, I am experimenting with Alclad. Results are supposed to be great and durable as well.
 
Thanks for the info all. I was given the Paasche model H as a gift.
I have the same. You can open up the flow by twisting the head on your airbrush needle cover. But like clmayfield said, if it is a primer or silver base, just save time by going with a spray can. Save the airbrushing for detailing and colors that you need to use an airbrush for.
 
I have the same. You can open up the flow by twisting the head on your airbrush needle cover. But like clmayfield said, if it is a primer or silver base, just save time by going with a spray can. Save the airbrushing for detailing and colors that you need to use an airbrush for.
I ordered a bunch of Humbrol paint so will I have to worry about the enamel paint reacting with the spray paint?
 
As long as the paint is dry, you don't have to worry about the layers reacting with each other. Never spray an acrylic over a wet enamel and vice versa and definitely don't mix them, but dry, it doesn't matter. The only thing you have to worry about reacting is that masking agent can react with paints if left there for long periods of time, especially with acrylics. This depends on the amount of ammonia in the masking agent. Some masking agents have more than others. I am not talking a couple of days, but I wouldn't leave a masking agent over an acrylic for a couple of weeks. It can leach into the acrylic layer.

As a rule, I try to take masking agents off as quickly as possible. Usually, just before the paint dries. And I like to spray over it the same day that I paint it. I am probably way over-cautious, but it is just based on things I have read and I have had issues with masking agent discoloring the metallic layer. I haven't had problems with any other layer.
 
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