Darth Vader ESB Lightsaber MPP Build
- Thread starter intwenothor
- Start date
intwenothor
Well-Known Hunter
Maybe but there isn't really anything that moves on the prop. It might be as simple as a bored actor playing with it or losing it, got knocked off during filming or any one of a number of other reasons.
intwenothor
Well-Known Hunter
Thanks dude. I really enjoy it (for an inanimate object). Theory on the thumbscrew is only that. I have no evidence at all. There might be a matching mpp out there.
Mugatu
Hunter
If I may ask, Andy, how did you attach the T Tracks? Double-sided tape or epoxy of some sort? Did you do any special filing of the ends that cover the end cap?
I've picked up a resin cast of a correct shroud from Sidewinder. I am a bit hesitant to drill into it though for fear of breaking through where I am not intending. Nevertheless, all that to say, I will likely begin a temporary build soon and have been going back and forth about attaching the T tracks in the most non-permanent way. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I say non-permanent as this MPP is destined for non-Vader usage ultimately.
I've picked up a resin cast of a correct shroud from Sidewinder. I am a bit hesitant to drill into it though for fear of breaking through where I am not intending. Nevertheless, all that to say, I will likely begin a temporary build soon and have been going back and forth about attaching the T tracks in the most non-permanent way. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I say non-permanent as this MPP is destined for non-Vader usage ultimately.
intwenothor
Well-Known Hunter
I used a two part epoxy resin. Extremely permanent. I'm all in where found parts are concerned although I appreciate that many see them as an investment and are reluctant and fully respect that although I also think some unaltered parts look silly (Like a replica saber with an MPP plate or the Nemrod holster is another good example). I think in this case however that a semi permanent solution could work quite well before your ultimate butchery for the EE3 although I'd wager once you end up with a nice saber you'll want either another MPP OR replica MPP for your EE3!
I'd consider superglue which, to be honest, is anything but and comes off quite easily with picking. Double side tape might also work. Why not try some different ideas on another piece of chromium plated metal to see what works?
I'd consider superglue which, to be honest, is anything but and comes off quite easily with picking. Double side tape might also work. Why not try some different ideas on another piece of chromium plated metal to see what works?
Mugatu
Hunter
I agree. I typically don't have any issues with "defacing" vintage real parts and relics (you should see my OB1 grenade). I just dont' want to mess up the finish on this one as with this shroud, I will definitely be using it for the EE-3 once I obtain the Webley. I will have to try the super glue bit to test things out. Thanks for the advice, and again, your Vader saber is really awesome looking. Hopefully once I get my resin shroud painted, my Vader saber will look half as good as your does.
intwenothor
Well-Known Hunter
I believe that crinkle paint does wonders for the finish on shrouds and can make a replica resemble the real thing very well.
intwenothor
Well-Known Hunter
Sym cha at the rpf knows how to get the best out of that stuff. I'd ask him for some advice on using it.
intwenothor
Well-Known Hunter
Doing some work on a companion piece for the ESB duelling set.
intwenothor
Well-Known Hunter
Moet1919
New Hunter
Hello there intwenothor, could you email me at kiehlcharley@gmail.com please. It's about one of your projects you did.
the_man_with_the_ee3
Hunter
I've got a Graflex and just about all of the parts to do an ESB Luke saber, but everything has been sitting in the closet for 5+ years...I should get that out and put it together. Has a consensus ever been reached on whether screws or rivets were used on the t tracks?
intwenothor
Well-Known Hunter
Screws. That's definitely what's on the existing 'ranch' saber. I went with screws.
